Part 2 :- Second example of using High Pass in Layers and information for resizing and saving images.

In this part, I am looking at an image which I have already prepared for publication and which has been submitted for stock.

Each time I look at the image, I feel it is a little darker than I would like. The only work which was done to the original was to remove some CA (chromatic aberration) and resize the image. The colour and image levels are as shot by the camera.

I will follow similar steps to just lighten slightly whilst retaining 'apparent' contrast. Remember, the aim is to retain colour fidelity and not degrade the original image. In post process work, subtle changes often produce the best results.

This is the prior prepared image.

Step 1 - Make a duplicate layer of the image.

Step 2 - Select the High Pass filter

Step 3 - Choose a value for the filter.

In this instance, I am using 250. You should try different settings and see what the outcome on your own image is though.

Typically, I use values ranging anywhere from 140 to 250.

Notice how the image goes 'milky' looking. Don't worry, it is quite normal.

Step 4 - Select Blending Options

Step 5 - Select Soft Light from the Blending Options top drop down box.

Step 6 - Adjust the Opacity Slider to suit. In this case, I am using 40% but, again, I often use different values dependent on the image and the outcome I desire.

Note : Typically, the values I use range from 25% to 90%. Try different values on your own images to see the outcome.

Step 7 - While still in the 'Layer' mode, select Brightness/Contrast.

Step 8 - Adjust the Brightness/Contrast sliders to suit.

Note : Because we are still working in a Layer, and 'blending' at 40%, the adjustments will be much less pronounced than if we weren't.

Here I have selected 35 and 35. Don't be afraid to be heavy handed as the Layer is still 'blending'.

You should, however, adjust to suit your image and taste. Try experimenting a little and see what feels right for you.

Curves or Levels can also be used for this step, if you wish to substitute them for the Brightness/Contrast control.

Step 9 - For this image that is all I wish to do. It is already sized the way I want, however, in the next few steps, I will show how you should resize and save.

First, select Flatten Image.

Note : If you wish to keep the image as a 'PSD' file, with the layers intact, omit this step.

Step 10 - Select Image Size.

Step 11 - Select the values you wish to make your image.

Normally, I use values of 12 x 17" @ 300ppi and use Bicubic Smoother. This then creates an image file which is upward or downwards scalable.

Note :- Why these sizes ? Using this approach, I print images at the following sizes  6 x 8.5", 8 x 11.5", 12 x 17", 16 x 23", 23 x 32.5" and 30 x 42". This is all from the same 'base' 12 x 17" file.

For 'art' uploads, 12 x 17" fits the (scalable) output, for example, from a site such as RedBubble. The other sizes provide economies when printing on a 12", 24" or 40" wide printers, which I print on.

It also provides a 'larger than required' size for book or magazine publication or stock. Basically, this means I do not have to (re)do an image when a publisher requests it. They will resize and do any CMYK conversion requirements.

Step 12 - This is probably the most important point to remember !

Do NOT save over your original image.

Select Save As.

Step 13 - Select a name for your image and the location where you wish to store it.

For this image, I have used the naming convention; DSCF4732b_1217_0908_HP_BC.

Note : What does this mean ? - DSCF4732 (original file) b (indicates version 2) 1217 (indicates the image size) 0908 ( the save date) HP_BC (shows that high pass and brighten/contrast were used)

After ten years of working in a digital image environment, I have ten's of thousands of edited images in my library, so naming becomes very important.

The point here is, you should choose something which will still be meaningful ten, or more, years from now .....

Step 14 - Once you have selected 'Save As' and clicked OK, you will be presented with a dialogue box asking which quality you wish to save at. I always use 12 (maximum).

Note : If I wish to then (re)size for the web, for example, I will use an image viewer (FastStone) to resize accordingly.

The finished image.

Below is a comparison between the original and finished images. The change is subtle yet effective.

Notes on using Brightness/Contrast, Curves or Levels for lightness and contrast adjustments.

The important point to remember, with this process, is that we are working in a Layer and using 'blending'. Any adjustments made for lightness/contrast, can be done using any of the above tools. None is any worse than the other.

The following image is from 100% crops of the same image used here, in an non-layered state, and using values in Brightness/Contrast of +25, +25. The step is then repeated using Curves or Levels to obtain the exact same RGB output value increase.

Which is which ? if you wish to download a MUCH larger version of this file - Please click here. Warning this is a large file !!

Please Note : If using the Brightness/Contrast tool NOT in a Layer, use sparingly as it will clip highlights and shadows if used too aggressively.

Pretty much that is it. I hope you find it beneficial.

Remember, do NOT save over your original file. Use 'Save As'.

There are hundreds of ways to post process. This is just one technique and I find it works well for most images.

Try it out and have fun. Be sure to try different values in the steps as this will provide you with a wealth of 'self-learned' views of how the values affect the outcome.

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