Recently (April, 2010), I purchased a FujiFilm HS-10.

This camera will shoot Raw images, and comes supplied with a Raw File Converter (RFC). This is 'powered' by SilkyPix, and is similar to the SilkyPix Developer Studio, albeit with a little less functionality. Still, it is very usable.

I normally use other applications for processing Raw files. At present (May, 2010), RFC, and SilkyPix Developer Studio (or Pro), are the only applications which will support the HS-10 Raw files.

The HS-10 delivers beautiful Jpeg images, if it is used correctly. If shooting Raw, much more control can be had over the resultant output. Particularly in terms of exposure, contrast, sharpening and, perhaps most importantly, noise control.

Processing raw images can seem a little daunting, and confusing, for a first time user. So, I have put together some notes about a set of process steps which can be used to get good results from RFC.

In the illustrations below, I will describe the typical step by step process which I use for converting, and adjusting, a Raw file from the HS-10 using RFC.

The original Raw file, I have used in this example, is available here if you wish to download and play with it yourself.

Have fun.

Note : This is the fourth example in the series.

If you are not familiar with the controls of RFC, please look at the first example. If you wish to see the first, click here

In this example, I will not put text on the image, unless I am talking about a new/different control from those used in the prior examples.

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Step One - Opening and displaying the image

As with all applications, simply select File/Open, and then select the Raw file you wish to work with in RFC.

Once the file is open, right click on the image and select the display size you wish to work in. To start, I normally select the size as 25%, and then enlarge the image to comfortably fit the display.

Here, I have enlarged the image to 32%, and have positioned it to the left of the display.

My main concentration in developing this image is to correct the white balance (WB), and also to try to reduce the contrast in the image, whilst keeping noise levels at a minimum, and also keeping the vibrance of the image.

Additionally, I am developing the image so that I can easily do some small final adjustments in PhotoShop, if required.

One area that is apparent, is the sky. If I do too much sharpening in RFC, I will cause 'blotchiness' in the sky area. This is far more easily dealt with in PhotoShop.

Step One (continued) - Opening and displaying the image

Here, I have turned on the Highlight/shadow warning. This is so that I can get an idea of the contrast extremes in the image, before I start.

Whilst I don't leave it on all the time, I will select it occasionally to see how my steps are affecting these areas.

There is some blocking of shadow areas (white areas), but highlights (coloured areas) are not a major concern. That being said, the high contrast in the image is causing some of the vividness of the clothing to 'bleach'.

Step Two - Correcting white balance

With this image, I am simply adjusting white balance, by eye.

The original has too much of a magenta cast.

The values I have chosen are shown below.

Step Three - Reduce the contrast

As with my previous examples, I will select 'Low contrast' to lower the overall contrast in the image.

This helps to flatten the tones in the image slightly, and also helps keep any noise to a minimum.

Remember, the more contrast you add in an image, the more noise you will accentuate. There is nothing wrong with using the contrast tools, only later in our process steps.

Step Four - Adjusting color (saturation)

The side effect of reducing the contrast in the image, is that I have washed a lot of colour out also.

Here, I am using the Color tool to add some saturation.

The default value is 1.00. I have simply increased this to 1.20.

The original scene was a vibrant blaze of colour. As I make my adjustments, I wish to keep as much of the vibrancy as possible.

Step Five - Adjust sharpening

Here, I have applied the sharpening levels as can be seen in the Sharpness controls window.

Note : If you are uncertain as to how much to sharpen, you can always start with values of 50, 50, 25. The image should be viewed at a larger size to see the effect of the sharpening actions.

Step Six - Adjust noise reduction controls

Again, as with my previous examples, I have negated all the noise reduction controls.

Here, however, I have then applied 85% False color crtl, and also 15% Noise reduction, and also Noise level to +2.

With this image, I am very mindful of trying to keep the noise (sky) to a minimum.

Note : The most 'savage' noise control is the one labelled 'Noise level' in the Noise canceller window. I do use it, but only at values of one, or two. Have a play with it and see what effects it gives.

Best to leave it off, unless absolutely required though.

Step Seven - Using the Highlight controller, and Fine color controller

Here, I have selected the Fine color controller, and 'Easing orange saturation'. Somewhat contrary to what it's name implies, this helps to keep too much contrast out of blue areas.

With the Highlight controller, I have selected 'Highlight for sunset'.

Whilst the sliders of these controls are locked out in RFC, you can see that sliders have changed. The main one I am interested in here, is the Dynamic range slider. This has now boosted my DR by +3.

Note : If you run your mouse over any of the descriptors, the screen will change to preview that selection.

Step Eight - Adjusting Demosaic sharp

Another adjustment which will affect the overall sharpness/smoothness of the image is Demosaic sharp.

The default value is 80 (sharper), and here I have selected 10. This has helped to smooth the image.

Remember, my concentration with this image is to reduce contrast, lighten, and keep noise to a minimum. The reason is that I will do a little more editing work in PhotoShop, and want an image as clean as possible.

If I were not intending to do that, I could always adjust my saturation, contrast, and sharpness in RFC.

Note : I cannot give you a detailed explanation of what Demosaic sharp is doing. Simply, you can see the effect though as you adjust.

There is some information in the user manual under 4.8.1 Demosaic Sharp Adjustment.

Step Nine - Fine tuning contrast

Here, I have gone back to my Tone (contrast) controls to do a small amount of fine tuning.

My original values, from selecting Low contrast, were 1.10, 0.45, 1.15, 0. I have now adjusted them as shown below.

Step Ten - Saving the image

Well, that is all I am going to do. It may seem like a lot of steps, really it is few.

All I have really done is to correct the white balance, get the sharpness and NR under my control, and 'balance' the contrast, and colour of the image.

Now I am going to save the image.

To do this I simply select the Development icon and the 'Save As' options window will open. I have also clicked the 'Preview button so I can preview any steps I take here.

I am using the file format of DSCF3673 RFC Final.jpg. This is so I know that it has been developed in RFC, and this is my final version.

I have also elected to add a very small amount of extra sharpening in this step. Here I have applied the values of 30, 0.3, 3.

Another thing I have done is to increase my image dimension output size to 4000 x3000 pixels.

That's about it. So, I will simply click the Save button.

Below this illustration, I have put the image as first opened in RFC, and then followed by the final image.

After that, I have put the final image as it appears with a small amount of extra editing work in PhotoShop.

Below that is the Jpeg image which came from shooting Raw + Jpeg.

The image as opened in RFC, and with the RFC default settings.

The image as finished using the RFC adjustments as described in the process steps above.

The final image as finished, using RFC, and then adjusted further in PhotoShop. Some slight noise reduction, sharpening, contrast and levels control have been done.

In this image, the sky was 'masked' in PhotoShop, and then the selection inverted. Doing this means that sharpening can then be applied to the image, with the sky excluded.

The image has also been cropped slightly.

The original Jpeg image from shooting Raw + Jpeg.